|
|
|
Junior Member
      
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 18th March 2009 17:36
Posts: 10,
Visits: 61
|
|
How do me bike wont start i'm getting a spark and i'm getting fuel to the engine but nothings happening i'm guessing the timings out but i've not set the timing before how do you it?
|
|
|
|
|
Supreme Being
      
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 23rd August 2010 20:19
Posts: 1,002,
Visits: 1,795
|
|
If you want technical advice, I would suggest that you include a bit more information, such as age, mileage, condition, things you have already tried, and so on. When you say it won't start, describe what you mean - completely dead, fires but won't catch, coughs for a while and then dies? It's almost impossible to diagnose a problem over the internet, but a bit of background helps those who are prepared to help you out. FWIW, I would think that the timing will be OK - most modern bikes have CDI, where the timing is not adjustable. I would guess at fuel - either too much or not enough. This is where a bit of background info would help. Also - have you had anything apart recently? That's always a good place to start, and believe me, I have solved enough problems by working backwards to a mistake of my own half an hour previously.
--
2003 ST1300 Pan Euro
1995 Yam XT600E
http://goingfastgettingnowhere.blogspot.com/
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Member
      
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 17th May 2009 00:58
Posts: 36,
Visits: 117
|
|
| Does having the choke in or out make a difference?
|
|
|
|
|
Supreme Being
      
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 16th May 2010 15:09
Posts: 637,
Visits: 1,168
|
|
| Spark's good, fuel's also good, but I wouldn't have thought the problem was likely to be timing, either. If it is, it'll be a shot CDI that needs replacing - timing adjustment these days is pretty much unnecessary/impossible on road machines and all about programmable electronics for racers. As BD says below, it's better to give too much information than too little, diagnosing problems without benefit of sight or sound isn't easy unless they're very obvious. I'd add my tuppence-worth of questions: has it been giving you any ongoing problems - such as getting progressively harder to start, running more roughly, or feeling down on speed and acceleration recently - or did it just not start without any warning? What are the symptoms that would make you suspect a timing problem in the first place? It does occur to me that this may not be the question you actually wanted to ask: whilst ignition timing is fixed by the electronics and cam timing by the engine configuration - you can adjust the idle speed to get more or less fuel into the engine on a closed throttle. It should tell you in the owner's manual how to do that and what the recommended idle speed is - a lot of bikes have an easily accessible adjustor knob, if not it'll be the thottle stop screw on the carburettor.
>> ex silens nox noctis <<
|
|
|
|
|
Junior Member
      
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 18th March 2009 17:36
Posts: 10,
Visits: 61
|
|
Its a Kymco Zing 125, 98 model mileage about 40000 Kilometres, it hadn't been looked after before I had it so trying to work on it is a pain in the neck because every time I try to undo a bolt or screw it either rounds off or snaps. Its got a auto choke on it. The carb isn't 100% but it still works, I've put a bigger exhaust and a sports air filter on. Its been miss firing, it kept cutting out when ticking over, just before xmas just finished work it took about 40 mins to start it got it started went down the road got stuck behind some traffic and it died and wouldn't start. So I changed the coil and the spark plug got it running ok not brilliant still miss firing for about a week then i tried to start it and nothing my electric start doesn't work so I have to kick start it and when i tried to start it it just splutters. The spark is pretty good and the spark plug is wet and smells of fuel thats all I can think of so far.
|
|
|
|
|
Supreme Being
      
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 16th May 2010 15:09
Posts: 637,
Visits: 1,168
|
|
| I'd be looking at fuelling. Spray some carb cleaner directly into the carb - or drop a very small amount of petrol in - and kick the bike over. If it fires up and then dies, that's a good start. Could be a split hose leaking air (worth checking as that's an easy and free inspection), but the carb's the obvious place to look. Depends a bit on what you mean by not being 100% - they don't really have all that many shades of grey between working and not working. Start by draining and cleaning, strip down fully if necessary . You might want to consider replacing the main jet after all, given that you've increased the airflow - rejetting isn't always compulsory with an open pipe, but it might be in this case. Still could be worth trying the mixture adjustment screw in both directions, in case that's off. Remember to leave time between tests, or kick the bike over with the fuel tap closed a few times after making changes, otherwise you'll just be working on a still partly-flooded engine each time if it is getting petrol through but not firing. If it doesn't fire in the first case, I'd probably be suspicious of the CDI box. I presume that the electric start doesn't work for other reasons, not connected to this problem? Might be worth looking into, though - sometimes it's a help to be able to turn the engine over continuously rather than just using the kickstart.
>> ex silens nox noctis <<
|
|
|
|
|
Supreme Being
      
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 23rd August 2010 20:19
Posts: 1,002,
Visits: 1,795
|
|
Bigger exhaust = more air flow. Sports air filter = more air flow. If the jetting hasn't been altered, the mixture will be way out. And idling or closed throttle running (which is what the OP describes) are where a wrong mixture will show most obviously. I'm sure Dave doesn't want to hear this, but putting the original exahust and air filter back on would be a useful test. If it runs OK then, he needs to start looking at jetting. Also bear in mind that altering the mixture with the mixture screw will only affect running at idle and small throttle openings. With a problem as bad as the one described, there is usually something grossly wrong. It may be a huge air leak, or the carb may just be worn out (40k isn't a huge mileage, but I've known carbs become useless at half that, especially with neglect and a bit of well-meaning bodgery). If Dave knows someone with an identical bike and can persuade them to 'lend' him their carb for half an hour, he could try that  New carb anecdote: my old Series Land Rover was starting and running really badly. I had spent a week in the workshop, stripping and cleaning the carb and fitting an overhaul kit. I even ground the mating surfaces on plate glass to rule out air leaks. Nothing. Then I shelled out on a brand new Zenith - the engine started immediately and ticked over like a Swiss watch, and has been trouble-free ever since. I believe carbs are the work of the devil and run on magic, and sometimes getting a new one is all you can do.
--
2003 ST1300 Pan Euro
1995 Yam XT600E
http://goingfastgettingnowhere.blogspot.com/
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Guru
      
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 31st December 2011 10:49
Posts: 54,
Visits: 11
|
|
| For the first time in decades, the fate of American foreign aid to Egypt, a total of $1.3 billion annually, hovered over the administration’s deliberations. Because of a new Congressional restriction that requires the State Department to certify that Egypt’s government is committed to democracy.
|
|
|
|