Yeah, the choke is an awkward one but with practice it's possible to close it on the move. Most CG's need a touch of full choke to get going, whatever the weather, and a lot more when it's cold. It can be a bit of an art not to flood on starting: the choke only works on a carb butterfly, so engine revs have to be managed by the throttle. Start on full choke, then feather the throttle to get running smoothly. To be fair, though, if you start the bike then put your gear on it'll normally have settled down to warm tickover by the time you're ready to go. Opinions vary on the subject, but I usually let my engine warm up a little - at least till the temperature gauge registers something - before riding. It's just one less potential hazard to worry about, especially in poor conditions: I've owned enough bikes that were absolute sods for stalling when cold not to need the hassle on an icy morning...!

As an aside, it might be possible to extend the choke to a handlebar mount, depending on your enthusiasm for spannering and whether it becomes a significant pain where it is. All it needs is a stiff enough cable to push closed as well as pull open and some sort of lever to operate it: assembly from another motorcycle or possibly a pushbike (gear change) should do it.

The humming doesn't sound right at all. If it's definitely from the tank and vibrational in nature, first thing is definitely to check all the rubber isolation mounts are properly in place and reseat it. You should be able to tell if it is that by putting a hand on the tank: you should be able to either feel the buzz or stop it by pushing hard enough. If that's not the cause, track it down by revving the bike on the stand and looking for anything loose: exhaust is often a favourite. If that doesn't help, try again under load: low gear, high rpm and somewhere private so you don't have to have a helmet on for best results.

>> ex silens nox noctis <<

Also sounds like somebody might already have done the instant gasket thing...! May well be worth investing in a new set up front (about £15, according to eBay) if you're going to the trouble of stripping down the engine anyway - just in case you find the previous owner was a big believer in cornflake packet stencils, or didn't quite grasp what purpose the gaskets serve...

>> ex silens nox noctis <<

Winter riding tips - now there's a topical subject. Loads, but they really boil down to three basic things:

1. Keep warm and dry - a minimal core body temperature drop will impair your judgement more significantly than alcohol does. It does mean investing in some reasonable winter clothing: basically, whatever your budget can stretch to. Anything you can do to minimise wind chill or rain getting to you is also good: not so easy on a naked upright, but it's possibly worth considering a flyscreen and handlebar muffs (not stylish, but effective).

2. Improve your road condition observation skills. It's an obvious statement, but bikes are a lot more vulnerable to adverse conditions than cars. Make sure your view is clear (fit a Fog City visor insert to your helmet, if it's prone to fogging), so you can read the tarmac ahead - and watch out for changes to the surface, anticipating whether that means less grip. Things to watch out for: diesel and oil rising if it rains after a few dry days, road debris (particularly wet leaves), frost and ice that will persist longer in shaded places (and on things like bridges) even if the rest of the road's clear, road furniture like cold, slippy manhole covers. And bear in mind that car drivers get dopier and less observant than usual with steamy windows, heaters on full blast and short, dark days.

3. Ride smoothly. There's usually more grip than you think there is, maximise it by using throttle and brakes progressively rather than jerkily: that will stop the tyres from suddenly breaking traction. Use a higher balance of rear brake - if either end's going to let go, you don't want it to be the front! Lean your body weight over more for corners, that way the bike can stay more upright. Be aware of how the throttle works - high gear and low revs give more steady drive but a greater acceleration or deceleration for any given throttle opening/closure: sometimes it's better to rev high in a lower gear, where quite large throttle movements make much less difference to the power output. Don't be over-paranoid about it all, though, you should quite quickly get a feel for how the bike behaves, the tyres are designed to work in a variety of fairly grim conditions and will cope with an average winter pretty well: you shouldn't necessarily end up being a lot slower in bad conditions than good ones. And just as in summer riding, if you do happen to overcook it, it's often better to rely on the bike making it to cope than it is to panic-brake!

Well, that's my tuppence-worth; hope it helps a little!

>> ex silens nox noctis <<

1. I like riding in the rain.  Really.  I invested in some good waterproofs a couple of years ago, and the XT I commute on has those handy little hand protectors which keep the worst off the digits.  I have a helmet with a Pinlock visor which just doesn't mist up (Endo mentions Fog City - never used them, but I have heard they are good), and I keep the visor spotlessly clean every journey.  After that, it's the swish of the tyres and the patter of rain on the visor.  I love it.

2. Wind isn't half as bad a problem as people seem to think.  If it's slightly breezy, Mrs Dog says "you aren't going on the bike today, are you?" and when I do, she worries all day until I get home.  Obviously, really high winds (say 7 or 8 and above) make things difficult, but you'd be surprised how well a bike will cope with blustery conditions.  The bike will move about in the wind, but not by a dangerous amount, and you (the rider) seem to stay in the same position - in other words, the bike moves about below you.  Relax, let the bike find its own way, and keep a steady drive on the throttle.  But you'll cope much worse than a car if a tree falls on you, so hurricanes are probably a good excuse to take the tank.

--

2003 ST1300 Pan Euro
1995 Yam XT600E
http://goingfastgettingnowhere.blogspot.com/

I like rain riding as well (- although warm summer rain has the edge, I feel!): one of the good things about proper rain is that it will clear all the crap off the road and leave a surprisingly high level of grip behind; the other is that it's generally warmer than clear winter skies and there's no serious danger of ice forming or lasting until it stops.

Absolutely swear by Fog City, particularly the HyperOptiks version. Well worth the extra cash, in my opinion: the photosensitive film really works to cut out glare during the day and the base yellow tint enhances night vision.

Definitely agree about wind: it can be disconcerting, especially with choppy crosswinds, but it's more of a psychological effect than actively dangerous under most reasonable circumstances - up to the lower end of severe weather warnings. Proper gales are starting to push your luck a little, but manageable with caution if needs must!

>> ex silens nox noctis <<

Its not the years of your life but the life in your years...or thanks to Black Dog, Its not the men in your life but the life in your men"....

www.yam-xt.com