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Supreme Being
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 21st November 2010 21:17
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So you guy's might have seen I got a screw in the rear tyre of the RS during the week and I had this horrible feeling it was going to cost a fortune and with this in mind primed Ruth with "It's probably only going to be about £180.00 or so!". I will not go into detail but she was not amused. Imagine my delight (and hers) when the bill came in at £113.00 for a bridgestone. Nice to be back out there and I can understand why they cost so much, "It's the bloody compound thats why Ruth!" LOL
Don't slide unless you mean too.Be sure, ride safe and enjoy 
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Supreme Being
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5th July 2008 20:20
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Ha ha. Well done Rebelman. I'm suprised she didn't ask nicely if she could spend the diff anyway!!!
The car in front, is now behind!
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Supreme Being
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 16th May 2010 15:09
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| That's not a bad price - still not cheap, but worth every penny! The one thing you never want to skimp on is the rubber, particularly up in ZR-category land. Don't know if anyone else shares the opinion, but I reckon Bridgestones offer the best all-round tyre package available at the moment: durable, confident, good at all temperatures and good in the wet.
>> ex silens nox noctis <<
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Supreme Being
Group: Administrators
Last Login: 15th July 2009 14:41
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| Bridgestones have come a long way in a relatively short space of time. OE fitment and now in MotoGP, perhaps Kobe did them a favour. The new fitment just out apparently has four different compounds 017, I think it is. Apart from a very fine difference in handling, due mainly to slightly different profiles, it's very hard to fault the grip of any modern tyre, which BD pointed out has changed from 'hewn out of firewood' to discarded chewing gum esque levels of adhesion, wet or dry. Banging on about the Buell again, the Pirelli Diablo's gripped like nobody's business. There was one really nice dry day, but the rest of them were wet, or greasy roads - didn't even notice, just rode like I always rode. Absolutely Brilliant!
Sideways through time
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Supreme Being
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 21st May 2009 15:43
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| I'm in a desperate need of a new rear tyre. It's squared off and lost pretty much all the tred. When joining the A-road in damp conditions it spins up and wiggles... fortunately I'm not leaning over at the time... I've learnt that's not a good idea!) So right now, I'm not really enjoying the riding experience as I'm constantly sitting there trying to feel the bike giving way under me and not really concentrating on just riding. I need some opinions... Bridgestone are obviously a fave on here with some (currently running a pair of them at the mo... well... one and a half!) but I've been looking at Avon. Any remarks about them? I need an all round tyre that will suit all conditions... Hoov, what were you saying about the Pirelli? Also, my Father was saying about a garage in Littlehampton that will remove you wheels, sort out the tyres and refit the wheel, all for a little more than what you'd pay if you just took a garage the wheels. Anyone else heard of this place?
Yamaha FZS 600 Fazer ... in gold! Ride safe, and look out for the Rainbow of Death! There're only 3 kinds of people in the world, those who can count, and those that can't. Roses are red, Violets are Blue, I'm a schizophrenic ..... and so am I! Take pity on the man who invented the drawing board, when he screwed up, he had nothing to fall back on. Stuff everything, I've always got my bike.
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Supreme Being
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 16th May 2010 15:09
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| Hoov's right, in that you can't really fault the outright grip of pretty much any modern tyre and they're all designed to work in a fair range of temperatures and conditions. As much as anything, it's about how that grip feels to you, personally and whether it works with your riding style. The different compounds and profiles can make a fair bit of difference to that - me, I could never get on with Pirellis. They always feel queasy and uncertain in the wet, although they are good in the dry. Bridgestones - and similarly Metzelers - don't seem as extreme, giving perhaps a little less in the dry but making up for it in the cold and wet. And I swore I would never, ever fit Continentals to any vehicle again as long as I live, because they always felt like the bike was about to fall on it's ear in every corner. But those are only my impressions of the everyday sports-touring tyre categories and obviously other people don't share them all, otherwise there'd only be one manufacturer! If your bike doesn't have a recommended tyre combination, there's no real reason not to fit whatever you like - Avons're spoken of as well as any these days. It's just a bit of a gamble whether you'll get on with them better, worse or no different at all to the pre-square Bridgestones. Not sure about the garage in LA, but Alf's in Worthing have always been quite reasonable price-wise for doing the whole job including wheel removal and fitting.
>> ex silens nox noctis <<
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Supreme Being
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 21st November 2010 21:17
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| So I must concure with you guy's and I supose I took what is an easy way to look at it and thought my inforced tyre change should be a like for like and as the bike has only done 4600 miles, I am guessing that the Bridgestone was a factory fited one and therefore the one meant for the bike according to Triumph anyway. You are right in what you say though and as the rider I should feel what is hapening on the road surface through the tyres and feel safe with it. This though begs the question of does one put different types on a bike just to try them out or do you go for the factory fitteds knowing that that is what is meant to be on it according to it's maker? I seem to remember some time ago there was a make of car imported into this country that had what I think were continentals on and they allmost needed changing straight away as they were useless on the grip side on our roads. Wish I could remember what the car make was!
Don't slide unless you mean too. Be sure, ride safe and enjoy
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Supreme Being
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 16th May 2010 15:09
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I'd've done the same thing: no harm at all in sticking with what you know, if it does the job. Anyhow, I'm not that keen on mix'n'match tyre combinations, so wouldn't consider changing make unless I was replacing front and rear. And I probably wouldn't bother changing the make unless a) I was sure it was to something better or b) there was a really large price difference involved!
>> ex silens nox noctis <<
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Supreme Being
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 21st November 2010 21:17
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On a tyre/wheel sort of thing, can anybody advise me on how to stop my scott-oiler putting oil all over the rim of my rear wheel along with soaking the inside of the belly-pan and leaving a small drip pool undewr the bike after leaving it for a while. I know there is an adjustment that can be made but I can't find out where or how. It's on my RS Sprint under the saddle.
Don't slide unless you mean too.Be sure, ride safe and enjoy
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Supreme Being
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 16th May 2010 15:09
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| Ah, the traditional Scottoiler problem. Love 'em as a device, but always a bit of a pain to get set up right in the first place. There's three possibilities: 1. The flow rate's too high 2. It's not properly vacuum sealed 3. The nozzle's got knocked out of alignment and is pointing straight at the wheel. It's most likely 1., though. Picture's worth a thousand words so (unofficial diagram by me): 
Turn the flow adjuster (the whole top of the oiler) anticlockwise to reduce flow, clockwise to increase. Far clockwise is the "prime" setting, only meant to be used if the oil feed tube's empty or full of bubbles. Run it long enough to pull oil all the way through, then turn the adjuster back down. I usually have mine set to about 4 or 5 for daily running. If the adjuster's set right, it might be 2. in which case check that the breather tube's rubber mounting is securely in place on the body of the oiler (it should pop snugly into a shaped holder). After that it's a bit ugly, need to check that the vacuum pipe is not split and seals properly to the carb/injector rubbers. If it's 3., the nozzle's usually cable-tied or rubber-mounted under/beside the swingarm: it's worth a quick check anyway to make sure it is pointing at the chain as they can get shifted over time.
>> ex silens nox noctis <<
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